Karóra mérési szabványok | Standards of testing wristwatches

COSC Grand Seiko Wempe Felurier

    A módszerek rövid összehasonlítása (mechanikusok) | Brief comparison of methods (mechanicals)

 Mechanicals

COSC Grand Seiko Wempe  

 Positions  

 5  

 6

5  

 Temperature [C]  

 8, 23, 38  

 8, 23, 38

8, 23, 38  

 Length [days]  

 15  

 17

15  

 Test [calibre/complete watch]  

 Calibre  

 Calibre (?)

Complete watch  

 Standard  

 ISO 3159  

 ISO 3158

DIN 8319  

 Year of standard  

 2009  

 1976

2010  


    Seiko logo Grand Seiko szabvány - mechanikus | Grand Seiko Standard - mechanicals

 Terms   Explanation  

 Certificate No.  

 Unique number of the rating certificate  

 Caliber No.  

 Code number of the movement  

 Movement serial No.  

 Unique number of the movement  

 Case serial No.  

 Unique number of the watch case  

 Order of days of inspection  

 Order of days of inspection  

 Daily rates  

 Measured loss or gain per day;expressed in seconds/day  

 Variation of the daily rates  

 Fluctuation of the daily rate under certain fixed conditions
 position, temperature, the degree to which the mainspring
 is wound up
 expressed in seconds/day  

 Positions  

 This refers to resting positions which the watch movement
 is placed during the certification tests on Grand Seiko.
 The following 6 positions are specified in ISO 3158.
 1 - Vertical, 6 O'clock UP 6U
 2 - Vertical, 3 O'clock UP 3U
 3 - Vertical, 9 O'clock UP 9U
 4 - Vertical, 12 O'clock UP 12U
 5 - Horizontal Dial Down DD
 6 - Horizontal Dial Up DU  

 Temperatures  

 This refers to the temperature environment in which the watch
 movement is placed during the certification tests on
 Grand Seiko.
 The test conditions are as follows;
 1 - 38 celsius
 2 - 23 celsius
 3 - 8 celsius  

 Mean daily rate
 in different positions  

 This refers to the mean value of 12 daily rate measurements
 taken over 12 days with the watch movement placed
 in the 6 different positions specified above for 2 days each
 expressed in seconds/day  

 Mean variation  

 This refers to the mean value of the 6 differences
 in daily rate between the first and second day measured
 with the watch movement in each of the 6 positions
 expressed in seconds/day  

 Maximum variation  

 This refers to the maximum value of the 6 differences
 in daily rate
 between the first and second day measured
 in each of the 6 positions
 expressed in seconds/day  

 Difference between
 flat and hanging position  

 This refers to the difference in daily rate between
 the two most typical positions while the watch is actually in use.
 Namely, this is the difference between
 the mean daily rate measured
 over 2 days with the watch movement in the 6U position
 and the corresponding measurement in the DU position
 expressed in seconds/day  

 Greatest difference between
 the mean daily rate and
 any individual rate  
 This is the maximum of the differences between each
 of the daily rates measured over the first 12 days
 of tests and their mean value.
 It indicates how the daily rate changes depending
 on the resting positions of the watch movement
 expressed in seconds/day  

 First variation of rate per
 1 day from 38 to 8  

 This indicates the change in daily rate per degree Centigrade
 of temperature in the same resting position DU
 when the temperature is changed from 38 to 8
 expressed in seconds/day/C  

 Second variation of rate per
 1 from 38 to 23  

 This indicates the change in daily rate per degree Centigrade
 of temperature in the same resting position DU
 when the temperature is changed from 38 to 23
 expressed in seconds/day/C  

 Rate-resumption  

 This refers to the value obtained by subtracting the
 mean daily rate measured over the first 2 days of the tests
 from the daily rate measured on the last day of the tests.
 It provides a measure of the stability of daily rate after
 a specified period of use ; expressed in seconds/day  

 Date of inspection  

 Description of the date when all the inspections
 have been finished.  


 Terms of Grand Seiko standard

Unit

Standard

 Mean daily rate in different positions  

 [s/d]  

 -3.0 / 5.0  

 Mean variation  

 [s/d]  

 < 1.8  

 Maximum variation  

 [s/d]  

 < 4.0  

 Difference between flat and hanging position  

 [s/d]  

 -6.0 / 8.0  

 Greatest difference between the mean daily rate and any individual rate  

 [s/d]  

 < 8.0  

 First variation of rate per 1C from 38 to 8  

 [s/d/C]  

 -0.5 / 0.5  

 Second variation of rate per 1C from 38 to 8  

 [s/d]  

 -0.5 / 0.5  

 Rate-resumption  

 [s/d]  

 -5.0 / 5.0  

 Number of positions in inspection  

   

 6 positions  

 Condition of temperature in inspection  

   

 8, 23, 38 C  

 Total days of inspection  

   

 17 days  


3U 6U 9U 12U DU BU
3 fent 6 fent 9 fent 12 fent Szlap fent Szlap lent
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    COSC logo COSC szabvány | COSC Standard

Mechanikus Kvarc
Mechanical Quartz
 C.O.S.C. official site

    COSC szabvány - mechanikus | COSC Standard - mechanicals

 Mechanical 

 Values   Remarks  

 Average daily rate:  

  -4/+6  

 this is the average rate over the first ten testing days.  

 Mean variation
 in rates:  

 2  

 this figure shows if a watch tends to run fast or slow;
 a good quality watch will be consistent,
 whether it is fast, slow or correct.  

 Greatest variation
 in rates:  

 5  

 This is the largest difference between any two day's
 readings in a single position.  

 Difference between
 rates in H & V
 positions:  

  -6/+8  

 calculated by subtracting the average of the rates
 in the vertical (V) position (first and second days)
 from the average of the rates in the horizontal(H)
 position (ninth and tenth days).  

 Largest variation
 in rates:  

 10  

 the largest difference between the mean daily rate
 (see test number 1) and any individual rate during
 the first 10 days of positional testing.  

 Thermal variation:  

  ± 0.6  

 the temperature error of the movement,
 expressed in seconds/degree.  

 Rate resumption:  

  ± 5  

 figure obtained by subtracting the average mean
 daily rate of the first two days of testing from
 the mean daily rate of the last test day.  


 Day  

 Position    t[C]    Add. Test  

 0  

6U 23    

 1  

6U 23    

 2  

6U 23    

 3  

3U 23    

 4  

3U 23    

 5  

9U 23    

 6  

9U 23    

 7  

BU 23    

 8  

BU 23    

 9  

DU 23    

 10  

DU 23   Mech. in op.  

 11  

DU 8    

 12  

DU 23    

 13  

DU 38    

 14  

6U 23    

 15  

6U 23    

3U 6U 9U 12U DU BU
3 fent 6 fent 9 fent 12 fent Szlap fent Szlap lent
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    COSC szabvány - kvarc | COSC Standard - quartz

 Quartz 

 Value  

 Average daily rate at 23 °C:  

  ± 0.07  

 Rate at 8 °C:  

  ± 0.2  

 Rate at 38 °C:  

  ± 0.2  

 Rate stability:  

 0.05  

 Dynamic rate:  

  ± 0.05  

 Temporary effect of mechanical shocks:  

  ± 0.05  

 Rate resumption:  

  ± 0.05  

 Residual effect of mechanical shocks:

± 0.05  

 200 shocks equivalent to 100 G (981 m/s˛, 3,217 ft/s˛)  

   


 Day 

 Position   t[C]    Add. Test  

 0

DU 23    

 1

DU 23   Mech. in op.  

 2

DU 23    

 3

DU 8    

 4

DU 38    

 5

DU 23    

 6

DU 23    

 7

DU 23    

 8

DU 23    

 9

DU 23   Mech. Shock  

 10

DU 23    

 11

DU 23    

DU
Számlap fent
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    Wempe logo Wempe - eljárás | WEMPE - procedure

Mechanikus Kvarc
Mechanical Quartz
 Wempe official site

    Wempe - Mechanikus | WEMPE - Mechanical

 Basis  

 LMET(*) and SLME(**) test timepieces
   in accordance with the strict criteria stipulated by  

 Standard  

 DIN 8319, which specifies a fifteen-day series of tests.  

 Positions  

 The accuracy of the candidate's rate is tested in five positions
  1 - crown left
  2 - crown up
  3 - crown down
  4 - dial up
  5 - dial down  

 Temperature  

 All watches are tested at
  23° C
   8° C
  38° C
at 50 percent humidity.  

 Measurement  

 The results are measured every 24 hours,
  after which time the movements are once again fully wound.  

 Complications  

 On the tenth day of the test, any possible complications are activated  
   in order to measure the effects of these complications
   on the accuracy of the rate.

 Criteria  

 In each of these five positions, its
  average daily rate must not deviate by more than -4 or +6 seconds
  average daily rate deviation must not exceed 2 seconds
  greatest rate deviation must not exceed 5 seconds.  

 Specifics  

 Two special features of the German norm stipulate that
  each watch must be set to the second and
  each candidate must be tested inside its own case in order to
  preempt the possibility of potential deviations.  

 *  

 LMET - Das Landesamt für Mess- und Eichwesen Thüringen  

 **  

 SLME - Sächsische Landesamt für Mess- und Eichwesen  


3U 6U 9U 12U DU BU
3 fent 6 fent 9 fent 12 fent Szlap fent Szlap lent

 Designation

Unit Class1 Class2  

 Average daily rate (G)  

 s/d  

 -4 <= G <= 6  

 -5 <= G <= 8  

 Average value of absolute amount of  
 rate deviation (V)  

 s/d  

 V <= 2  

 V <= 2  

 Rate deviation (Vmax)  

 s/d2  

 Vmax <= 5  

 Vmax <= 7  

 Difference betwee rates in horizontal and  
 vertical position of the watch (D)  

 s/d  

 -6 <= D <= 8  

 -8 <= D <= 10  

 Greatest spread of rates (Pmax)  

 s/d  

 Pmax <= 10  

 Pmax <= 15  

 Temperature depenency of rate (C)  

 s/(d*K)  

 -0.6 <= C <= 0.6  

 -0.7 <= C <= 0.7  

 Return to rate  

 s/d  

 -5 <= R <= 5  

 -6 <= R <= 6  

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    Wempe - kvarc | WEMPE - Quartz

 Designation

Value Unit Requirement  

 Average daily rate  

 Gd  

 s/d  

 -0.3 <= Gd <= 0.1  

 Standard deviation of daily rate  

 SG  

 s/d  

 SG <= 0.05  

 Speed of rate deviation  

 A  

 s/d2  

 -0.003 <= A <= 0.003  

 Temperature coefficient C1  

 C1  

 s/(d*K)  

 -0.04 <= C1 <= -0.13  

 Temperature coefficient C2  

 C2  

 s/(d*K)  

 -0.06 <= C1 <= -0.04  

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    Fleurier logo Fondation Qualité Fleurier - eljárás | Fondation Qualité Fleurier - procedure



   Fondation Qualité Fleurier Technical Commission has noted that :
   Aesthetic criteria
      are detailed on 11 pages of
      VALIDATION CRITERIA FOR OBTAINING THE QUALITY LABEL «FQF, CERTIFIED HAUTE HORLOGERIE»
      focusing on
         Polished edges (sharp edges are refused)
         Decoration on all relevant surfaces.

      The certification is based on random sampling.

   Chronofiable® ageing test comprises the following steps (mechanical and quartz movements) :
      Note : $9.81 m/s2 = 1g

      Chronofiable® certificate is awarded to a type of watch on sampling basis
Number of units produced Number of parts tested

1 - 100

5

101 - 200

10

more than 200

20


   COSC certification (norm ISO 3159)
      Each piece of calibre build into a watch wearing FQ label must be COSC certified.


   Final check on the FLEURITEST MACHINE
      The certification is based on random sampling.
      FLEURITEST MACHINE cycle tries to imitae the workday of a man working in office environment during 24 h:

 Block

Activities  

 1

 - Put on the watch
 - Dress
 - Breakfast  

 2

 - Put on jacket  

 3

 - Car journey  

 4

 - Arrive at the office
 - Remove jacket
 - Read newspaper
 - Check mail
 - Make phone cals
 - Working session as speaker
 - Take files
 - Do filing
 - Walk around the company
 - Sit down at a desk then get up again 
 - Have coffee
 - Put on jacket  

 5

 - Remove jacket
 - Lunch and chat
 - Take a walk  

 6

  Repeat block 4  

 7

 - Car journey  

 8

 - Change
 - Exercise
 - Change back- Car journey
 - Take a stroll  

 9

 - Have a quiet family meal
 - Read
 - Undress
 - Remove watch  

 10

 - wear it all night  

      "During the 24-hour test, a camera connected to a computer conducts a sight check
      of the running variations of the watch, in real time.
      The allowed variation over the 24-hour cycle is 0 to + 5 seconds
      compared to GPS time, which is used as reference."

 References:
 Fondation Qualité Fleurier official site
 Laboratoire Dubois S.A. official site - Chronofiable® page
 C.O.S.C. official site Vissza az elejére / Back to the Top

www.mechanikus.hu